Final Evaluation

Overall, I am pleased with the tailoring work I have done and think it is of a good standard. However, I am disappointed that I have not been able to learn more through this project and feel that I still lack tailoring skills that I will need in the future. I understand that this is a result of my work placement, which has reduced the time I have had to complete my tailoring work, but I have gained valuable experience by completing this.

Tailoring is an area that interests me greatly, and I have enjoyed researching further into it. Initially, I think I focused too much on general research into tailoring when I should have perhaps looked more at techniques I would be using, together with fabrics. Once I realised this, I did change the direction of my research and I think I have learnt much from doing this.   On reflection I could have perhaps gone into greater depth with my research, particularly concerning fabrics, although time constraints meant that construction of the jacket became my main focus. During construction, however, I think my research skills were of sufficient quality to enable me to find a solution to my pocket flap problem independently.

I enjoyed drafting the patterns for this project and have increased my knowledge of this process. I think I am developing an eye as to what looks right in relation to patterns and their alteration. However, I think that in general, too much time was spent on drafting the patterns, particularly when considering the time I then had left to construct the jacket. Nevertheless, I appreciated that this would have been difficult to change, as there was no time before the Easter break to get fabric, which was needed for the next stage.

I am happy with my fabric choice and think it fits the period well; in addition the herringbone stripe adds a challenging dimension. This did provide some problems, particularly in relation to the pockets, as these had to be matched with regard to the stripes and because of the additional challenge of a flap, they took much longer than I had anticipated. It perhaps may have been easier, given my time constraints, to have picked a plain fabric, but it was difficult to find a suitable fabric I liked and I did not see any plain fabric that I thought would work as well as the herringbone.

I am pleased nevertheless, with the pockets and the way they match. The flap was an extra challenge but now I know more about how to sew these and the general shape of them. The inside jetted pocket’s left side is slightly too slanted, probably as a result of sewing past the upright and so I will be more careful of this in the future.

I am glad I had time to learn how to do trouser side entry pockets and a fly, as these are extremely useful skills to know. I think my pockets are more successful than the fly but I found them easier and simpler to construct. I definitely need to practice doing button holes, as I am not happy with the ones that I have done. Similarly, I found the last step of the fly particularly difficult, as the button placket did not reach as far over as I had expected. I am also concerned about the raw edges of the fly, in particular, whether these will be on show once the trousers are finished.

With regards to my work placement, I have enjoyed my time there and although it has meant I have not been able to learn as much tailoring, as I would have liked to during the project, the placement has given me a beneficial insight into the professional environment. It has been exciting working on the Olympics’ costumes, as this is probably a once in a life time opportunity. Although I have gained few new technical skills on my placement, I have gained valuable practical experience.

This tproject has allowed me to gain construction skills and experience, which I have enjoyed learning, not least because of the challenges they have presented me with and the need for me to use my problem solving skills.  Tailoring is an area of work that I think I would like to continue with in my third year and so I am extremely keen to complete my jacket and trousers to enable me to progress further with my development of skills in this area.

Facings

The furthest I could reach with my jacket is the facings and inside pocket. I think this has gone well, and the shape of the facing is good. I think the left side of my jetted pocket is on too much of a slant, possibly because I sewed slightly past the upright. I shall have to be more careful of this in the future. Although I found I could complete the pocket without looking at my instructions, I did occasionally miss a stage and had to go back. I do need to keep practicing pockets but I think I completed this one relatively quickly, partly because the jets were plain fabric which made it much easier.

I am pleased with the inside of the pocket, as I usually zig zag this piece to the pocketing, but as lining frays a lot and is easily caught when using zig zag, I top stitched it instead, which has worked well.

Observations on the Tube

During my commutes to and from work experience, I have found that the tube is an excellent place to observe men's jackets! Becoming somewhat obsessed by looking at the jackets around me (particularly the pockets) I have observed some interesting aspects of suits. Perhaps the most interesting is that on mass produced jackets, the jets do not match the grain, like I have been taught to do, instead the grain sits horizontal. This means that with a striped jacket, the stripes do not match and instead go in a horizontal direction, and I have found that flaps although the grain matches the rest of the jacket the stripes do not. I have also found that the upright of the welt pocket does not always follow the straight of grain as it should, perhaps because less time is taken over this than with a bespoke suit. Many suits tend to have a row of small stitching (almost like stab stitching but more obvious) around the lapel and also the CF.

I also saw a picture of Will Smith in the Metro wearing a very nice suit, and one that had clearly been made to measure, particularly as it has a ticket pocket. I really like the styling of the suit with the purple shirt and tie, as although these are also patterned, it is oddly not too much. The trousers are also turn ups, which I like and is perhaps more unusual to find.

Trouser Fly

I found this fairly challenging and think I definitely need to practice constructing flies. I think the most difficult part was the final stage of top stitching the fly, particularly when having to manoeuvre the button placket to stitch this. The curve of this could also be improved. I am disappointed with my buttonholes and again, need to practice these. I am not entirely sure how the trousers get finished off with the lining as I am concerned that the raw edges of the fly pieces will be on show. The fly needs to be completed with buttons and a couple of hooks and bars, but the waistband needs to be done before this.

Brioni

Although not particularly related to the work I have been doing, I was shown this video by a friend and thought it was great!

                                                            http://vimeo.com/40925215

It also led me to research the tailors that helped to produce the video, Brioni. This is an Italian company that was established in 1945. I like their website (http://www.brioni.com/), particularly the design, and it is interesting to read that they are continually doing research into the fit of suits and their models as this is obviously a key aspect of bespoke tailoring and what differentiates it from mass produced suits; personalising each suit to the individual wearer.

The company began as a tailors shop in Rome, with a focus on high fashion. As their website describes 'Brioni innovated the fashion show concept...and showed men on the catwalk for the first time'. This is interesting as although tailoring always has been a fine craft, largely catering for the elite, the move to the catwalk arguably brought tailoring to the fore front of high fashion. The fact Brioni introduced a touch of colour to formal wear, dinner jackets in particular, also shows how they are innovators within the tailoring industry.

Looking through their collection, I thought this jacket was unusual, but compliments the bright colours of the collection. I think the use of these colours and fabrics reflects Brioni's sense of colour and high fashion influences, as well as clearly being a summer collection, perhaps intended to attract younger, fashion conscious customers. Colours seem to have played a key role in Brioni's history, and as a company they are one which has explored the relationship between innovation and tradition.

Brioni stated a tailoring school in 1985, which teaches the '220 phases needed to produce a Brioni garment'. It expanded in the 90s and not only makes suits but a whole range of men's garments.

The company appears to have boutiques across the world, though it is unclear whether these offer made to measure services. 

Trouser Pockets

I found these relatively straightforward, particularly compared to jetted and welt pockets. I am glad that I took the time to learn this process as although I wont be making trousers for this project, knowing how to do these pockets will be useful in the future. I think my sample is fairly neat, although I am not sure if the seam should cover more of the uprights, as the mouth is not completely at the side. I think this is as a result of sewing the mouth 1/2" away from the edge rather than 1/4". I would like to attempt the slanted trouser pockets next as I think these will be a different challenge.

Reflection on the project

As I am beginning my work placement on Tuesday, I am not able to progress much further with my jacket as I need to be shown the next steps. I am disappointed that I will not be able to finish my jacket, but think that I will gain valuable skills and experience through completing a work placement. Hopefully, at some point in the future, I will be able to complete my jacket as tailoring is a particular area of interest to me and something I think I might like to continue in my third year.

At this point, I am pleased with the work I have done on my jacket. I have worked hard to ensure my pockets are of a standard I am happy with as well as other aspects of my jacket, such as the pad stitching. I feel like I have learned some new skills, and was happy that I was able to learn how to do trouser side entry pockets and a fly, because although I am not making trousers for this project, it is useful to know for the future.

With regards more generally to tailoring, I have continued to be aware of the importance of precision and of getting things right the first time. I have tried to follow this throughout the project, but found it particularly challenging with regards to the pockets as to ensure the stripes were matching and precise, I had to unpick and re sew the jets a few times. Nevertheless, I have enjoyed the challenges of the project and finding ways to overcome them as well as working more independently.