Initial Research

I initially researched more generally into tailoring, looking at the work of Whife and Vincent. Although this was interesting and beneficial to my general knowledge, I feel I should be spending more time researching more specifically into the time period of the suit I will be making as well as possible techniques I will be employing. Below is some of my research:

From 'A First Course in Gentlemen's Garment Cutting' - A.A. Whife

Anatomy

Most successful cutters have some knowledge and understanding of the shape and formations of the body, its proportions and the laws of its growth and development. The types of figure vary in different parts of the country and the effects of occupation. In districts where most of the inhabitants are engaged in agricultural work, or in heavy engineering, the structure of such people's figures will be different from those of people employed in offices and shops. The former will,probably, be developed in the back, chest and shoulders to a greater extent than the latter.

Training the observation (p.5)

The importance of a trained judgement in forming a mental picture of the figure he is attempting to clothe is realised by every thoughtful experienced cutter. Such judgement is acquired only after practice. The young cutter is advised to make observation of all the figures he sees in the course of the day and to note their peculiarities. He may imagine that he has garments to cut for these figures and try to work out what he would do in order to fit them satisfactorily...Figures have to be dressed as well as clothed - there is a big difference in the terms here.

Taking measurements (p.6)

It is a good plan to consult the customer, at the time of measuring, on the style of clothes he likes and on the purpose for which he intends them.

It is the usual practice for the cutter to take measurements and call them out to the salesman. The later enters them in the order book, at the same time as calling them back to the cutter. The cutter should make inquiries about the style/pockets/buttons, although the salesman may have done this prior to the cutter's arrival. It often happens that the customer asks for things that are not practical - cutter will give guidence. It is importance that the customer should be standing naturally/relaxed.

Cutting Trousers from the Cloth (p.17)

It is common practice for cutters to draft all trousers direct on to the cloth - saves time and convenient for plain fabrics. With check designs, it is better to use a pattern.

From 'Tailoring of the Belle Epoque' - W.D.F. Vincent

Vincent invented the C.P.G system which caused quite a stir in the English tailoring world. However it was too complicated and so went back to an older, simpler direct measurement system.

Trousers - 'the seat expands 2in. when the wearer sits down, the seat lengthens 4-6in. when the wearer stoops'

Important to know the varied effects produced by pattern, colour and finish of cloth - that stripes worn vertically make a man appear taller, that checks make him look wider, that light colours make him appear larger and dark colours smaller; that smooth surfaced cloths have a minimising effects, while rough surfaces present an enlarged appearance.

Should measure with your eyes as well as hand and tape to look for any peculiarities of form such as lopsidedness etc.

Key differences of shape (p.50):

• a child is short in limb, corpulent in figure and large in shoulder
• the youth is long of limb, small in chest and has a tendency to stoop
• the man of mature age is often corpulent, erect, square and small in the shoulders 
• stooping figures are prominent in the blade and flat in the chest, large in the shoulders with arms forward
• erect figures are flat in the back, well developed at the chest, prominent at the seat and backward hanging at the arms
• short people are often square in the shoulders
• tall people are often sloping in the shoulders
• children and youths are growing so that too close a fit is undesireable