Fitting

I was able to watch the fitting of another girl in my group and found it really useful, particularly with regards to what to look for when fitting a suit. Below are some key points:

• We first looked at the fit of the trousers. With these, the fishtails should be about 3" apart. Similarly the first brace buttons should sit 3" from the CF and the second a further 3" from this.
• Usually the trouser pockets and fly would be completed by the tailor before the fitting as any alterations that need to be made are done to the back pieces.
• When looking at the length of the trousers, ensuring there is a break line is key. This is a crease in the trouser leg just above the shoe. The bottom of the trouser usually hits the bottom of the heel (above the sole of the shoe). The hem can be shaped to make it shorter at the front to fit better over the shoe.
• It is usually expected at a fitting to at least have calico sleeves in as this helps to visualise what the completed jacket will look like.
• When looking at the jacket, the first thing to do is to go to the back before closing the front. The across back should be smooth. The front should then be pinned, checking this does not distort the back. Check around the arm to ensure there is no 'air'.
• With regards to the lapel, this is normally cut after the fitting with the seam allowance being folded over and tacked so it is easy to adjust. This is important as it is a style area and one which the designer is likely to want to change.
• It is almost always the case that you need to scoop out more around the armhole at the front so it doesn't bunch. This is marked with pins. If able to, it is helpful to snip into the seam allowance (obviously once the sleeve has been removed). This is to give the actor more confidence that he will have more ease when wearing the finished jacket. Be careful when doing this by putting your hand in between the shirt and scissors.
• When sewing the side seams, it is most important to get the balance points at the armhole right and then the chest/waist points.
• It is key when pinning the jacket length to check with the designer and look in the mirror.
• It was interesting to see the canvas and the felt doing their job by creating a smooth front.

The fit of the suit was good and looked nice. I would have liked to have a fitting with my jacket but ran out of time. I hope that perhaps when I am able to continue with my jacket I will have a fitting. I am pleased, however, that I have been able to watch a couple of fittings as this had added to my knowledge and understanding of tailoring.