Pad Stitching - Lapel

Today I completed the pad stitching for the lapel, which is similar to that which I have done for the canvas. It was slightly more complicated, involving a few steps, but not as challenging as matching the pockets. Overall, I think the pad stitching is relatively neat, although on the first lapel the stitches should be closer together. Therefore, when stitching the second lapel I took this on board and think it has turned out better. 

Below are photos and a short explanation of the process, a more detailed version of which I will include in my workbook.

1.Tack a piece of cotton tape (1/2" or 1cm wide) centred on the middle of the break line, leaving extra either end. Use a running stitch. About 1/3 of the way up from the bottom of the lapel pull the tape to slightly gather the lapel and hold with a back stitch. Do not continue up to the top of the lapel, instead reverting back to a running stitch (see picture).

2. Pad stitch the edges of the tape with matching thread (to the top cloth). The stitches should be about 1cm long. Also pad stitch the edges of the breast felt and shoulder canvas down.

3. Again using matching thread, pad stitch the canvas to the top cloth. Ensure to only do this in the lapel not seam allowance. The stitches should once again be about 1cm long and each stitch should start halfway down the stitch of the previous row. As you stitch, push the canvas a tiny bit towards the tape. this will help to roll the lapel. The corner of the lapel should have the stitches going in a different direction (see picture below).

First Lapel - stitches need to be further apart

Second Lapel - stitches closer together

Rolled Lapel

I found this process particularly interesting as by moving the lapel when stitching the tape, and pushing the canvas a tiny bit on each row of stitching, it means the lapel rolls and prevents it from bowing. I enjoy learning about these techniques and processes as it is what differentiates a bespoke tailored jacket from mass produced jackets to an extent, and you begin to understand the amount of work and skill that goes into the work.